Tailoring an 1890s Jacket to Live My Victorian Boss Dreams

Bernadette Banner May 13, 2023
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Bernadette Banner

@bernadettebanner

About

Costume analysis & fashion history. Sometimes educational. For business: [email protected]

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🔎👒 Download June's Journey for free here: https://woo.ga/v95d0i Thanks to June's Journey for sponsoring this video! ⤠ MATERIALS ⤟ Pinstripe fabric (~2m): UK Textile, Goldhawk Road, London Cotton silesia lining (~2m): https://www.williamgee.co.uk/shop/cotton-pocketing-silesia-black/ Horsehair canvas interlining (~1m): https://www.williamgee.co.uk/shop/ko-395-tailors-canvas-interlining/ Linen stay tape: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/669064766/natural-linen-ribbon-1m-to-15m?show_sold_out_detail=1&ref=nla_listing_details Thread: black cotton, black silk buttonhole twist (topstitching) ⤠ HOW TO SUPPORT ⤟ ♥️ PATREON for exclusive behind-the-scenes content! https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner ⚝ NEBULA to see these videos ad- and sponsorship-free, + Original content! http://www.nebula.tv/bernadettebanner 🦵MERCH https://store.dftba.com/collections/bernadette-banner ⤠ START YOUR HAND SEWING JOURNEY ⤟ 📚 BOOK: “Make, Sew and Mend: Traditional Techniques to Sustainably Maintain and Refashion Your Clothes” https://linktr.ee/makesewandmend 🧵 SKILLSHARE CLASSES: “Hand Sewing Basics: Working Wonders with Fabric, Needle & Thread”. To sign up for a free trial and take the class, visit https://skl.sh/bernadettebanner1 ⤠ SOCIAL ⤟ 📸 INSTAGRAM @bernadettebanner http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner RESEARCH ASSISTANT | Heathcliff McLean IG @mxheathcliff https://www.instagram.com/mxheathcliff/ EDITOR | @DannyBanner IG @danbanstudio https://www.instagram.com/danbanstudio/ This channel is made possible through the generous support of Patreon members. On behalf of myself and the team: thank you! ✨ ⤠ SOURCES ⤟ [1] Remington. c.1908. Miss Remington Explains the New Model 10. Advertising Pamphlet. National Museums Scotland. https://www.nms.ac.uk/explore-our-collections/stories/science-and-technology/the-typewriter/typewriter-chapters/women-and-typewriters/. [2] Mechanics Institute, Church St. c.1895. Photograph. Toronto Public Library Digital Archive. https://digitalarchive.tpl.ca/objects/337831. [3] Aberdeen City Council. 1890s. Women at Work in a Typing Office. Photograph. National Museums Scotland. https://www.nms.ac.uk/explore-our-collections/stories/science-and-technology/the-typewriter/typewriter-chapters/women-and-typewriters/. [4] Askew, Thomas E. 1899-1900. Four African American Women Seated on Steps of Building at Atlanta University, Georgia. Matte Collodion Silver Print. Washington, DC. Library of Congress. https://www.loc.gov/resource/ppmsca.08778/. [5] Photograph. 1898. Platinum Print Photograph. London, United Kingdom. Victoria & Albert. https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O78182/photograph-unknown/. [6] Grimm, Constantine (’Nemo’) von. 1884. Elisabeth, Empress of Austria (“Ladies. No. 9.”). Chromolithograph, in Vanity Fair. London, United Kingdom. National Portrait Gallery. https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw257911/Elisabeth-Empress-of-Austria-Ladies-No-9. [7] Madam C.J. Walker Driving a Car. c.1911. Photograph. History.com. https://www.history.com/news/madam-cj-walker-business-millionaire. [8] Higham, Bernard. 1893. Have You Seen This? Illustration, in Ludgate Monthly of Loveday Brooke, Lady Detective. Wikimedia Commons. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:%22Have_You_Seen_This%3F%22.jpg. [9] Ullman & Strauss. c.1890. Women 1890-1896, Plate 002. Fashion Plate. New York, NY. Metropolitan Museum of Art. https://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p15324coll12/id/8016/. [10] Reynolds, Sir Joshua. 1780. The Ladies Waldegrave. Oil on Canvas. Edinburgh, Scotland. Scottish National Gallery. https://www.nationalgalleries.org/art-and-artists/5360/ladies-waldegrave. [11] Coypel, Charles-Antoine. 1746. Portrait of a Woman Sewing. Pastel. Private Collection. https://arthive.com/artists/3346~CharlesAntoine_Coypel/works/522451~Portrait_of_a_Woman_Sewing. ⤠ SOUNDTRACK ⤟ “Dorset Summer” by Moments “Tales from the Past” by Adam Saban “Pipe Dreaming” by Jon Bjork “The Enchanted Castle” by Adam Saban “Guardians” by Caleb Etheridge “Who Done It” by Reveille ⤠ TIME STAMPS ⤟ 0:00 - Intro: Welcome to Part 3 0:22 - Cutting the Fabric & Lining 1:29 - Stitching the Darts & Basting the Interlining 2:15 - Shaping the Front Pieces (aka: the best part of tailoring) 4:45 - Whipstitching Stay Tape for Structure 5:01 - Completed Jacket Fronts! (very satisfying) 5:29 - jk they aren't done (adding in boning) 5:57 - Attaching the Pieces 6:27 - Why Late Victorian Fashion is So Bada$$ 8:16 - Topstitching 8:50 - Looking at an Extant Jacket's Boning Pattern 10:20 - Stitching Up the Boning Channels 10:49 - Facing Every Stitcher's Nightmare: Sleeves 12:36 - Putting in the Lining (the period way) 14:19 - The Jacket is Complete! 14:36 - Final Ensemble Reveal (mob boss realness) 15:50 - Reflections on the Art of Tailoring 16:50 - Where'd You Go, Bernadette? (June's Journey Ad) 18:05 - green screen bloopers

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