آبگوشت رسمی به روش آرام‌پخت: طبق دستور استاد فقید نجف دریا‌بندری

Yummy Gastronomy May 25, 2022
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مرجع فارسی علوم و هنرهای متعالی تهیه و لذت‌بردن از خوراک و نوشیدنی ممتاز گسترونومی، مفهومی‌ست برآمده از ادغام علم و هنر، با نگاهی یکپارچه به تاثیر خوراک بر جامعه، فرهنگ، سلامت، محیط زیست، اقتصاد، و هنر. دریچه‌ای برای رصد و شناخت روابط درهم‌تنیده بشقاب ما با زمین و انسانها. نیاز به خوراک، پیوند ناگسستنی بین همه انسانها و طبیعت و محیط اطرافمان ایجاد می‌نماید. و البته خوردن صرفا برای زنده‌ نگه داشتن جسم نیست، بلکه بر عواطف، افکار، روابط اجتماعی، و خاطرات ماندگار ما نیز اثر‌گذار است. مهیار هستم، موسس یامی گسترونومی. اینجا یک کانال آشپزی ساده نیست و من‌هم یک آشپز شاغل در رستوران نیستم. حرفه‌ام مهندسی و مدیریت پروژه‌های مخابرات ماهواره، شبکه‌های گسترده کامپیوتری، و امنیت سایبری زیرساخت‌های حیاتی بوده. در اینجا حاصل رابطه عاشقانه‌ام با گسترونومی در پی ۴۰ سال سفر در جهان و تجربه و تحلیل انواع خوراک و دوستی و آموختن در کنار ده‌ها شف برجسته بین‌المللی از کشورهای مختلف و مطالعه مکاتب آشپزی ملل را، به اشتراک می‌گذارم. خوشوقتم که در سفر به دنیای پهناور گسترونومی، با هم همراه هستیم.

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برای ترمیم آسیب‌های ناشیانه وارد شده توسط تازه‌آشپزهای مجازی بی‌تجربه به این خوراک ملی، تنها کافیست تا با رجوع به معتبر ترین مرجع مکتوب خوراک پارسی یعنی کتاب مستطاب آشپزی، جلد اول،‌ صفحه ۹۵۳، هرگونه بحث بی‌اساس و بد‌سلیقه‌گی در این باره پایان پذیرد. در وصف این خوراک معرکه، بهتر از خود استاد نمی‌توان کلامی گفت: «آبگوشت، که از ابداعات خاص آشپزخانه ایرانی است، ناهار مفصلی است مرکب از دو دور: تریدِ آبِ گوشت، و گوشت کوبیده با نان. گوشت کوبیده سرد نه تنها صبحانه مطبوعی است، بلکه اردور خوش‌مزه‌ای هم به شمار می‌رود. در گذشته آبگوشت را به چند صورت متفاوت می‌پخته‌اند، آنچه امروز به‌نام *مطلق* آبگوشت شناخته می‌شودترکبب تازه‌ای است که با ظهور گوجه‌فرنگی و سیب‌زمینی مرسوم شده است و می‌توان آنرا *آبگوشت رسمی* نامید. اشکال دیگر آبگوشت، که دستور آن‌ها در زیر می‌آید، هنوز در گوشه ‌و کنار سرزمین پهناور ما پخته و خورده می‌شوند.» مهیار در این ویدیو طرز تهیه آبگوشت *رسمی* استاد شهیر عالی‌جناب نجف دریا‌بندری را (که دست بر قضا تقریبا همانند روش مورد علاقه خود اوست) با توضیحات دقیق و روش ساده به شما آموزش می‌دهد. تهیه این خوراک عالی توسط هرکسی با هر سطحی از تجربه آشپزی، قابل انجام است مواد مورد نیاز برای ۸ نفر گوشت تازه گوسفند با استخوان (قسمتهای چربتر دنده و سینه و سردست) ۱۴۰۰ گرم لوبیا سفید ریز (مرمری) ۱۵۰ گرم نخود ۹۰ گرم پیاز سفید یا زرد بزرگ ۲ عدد (حدود ۶۰۰ گرم) سیب زمینی حدود ۷۰۰ گرم گوجه‌فرنگی رسیده تازه حدود ۳۰۰ الی ۵۰۰ گرم سیر تازه یک کلیه - یا سیر خشک ۸-۱۰ حبه لیمو عمانی ۴ عدد دارچین ساییده ۱ قاشق چای‌خوری زردچوبه ۲/۳ قاشق غذا‌خوری نمک تقریبا ۱.۵ قاشق غذاخوری فلفل سیاه تازه ساییده نیم قاشق چای‌خوری **توصیه مهم بهداشتی** استفاده از ظروف سنگی یا سفالی کارگاهی برای پخت این خوراک و خوراکهای مشابه (خورش‌ها و ...) توصیه نمی‌شود. هرچند برخی اعتقاد دارند که این ظروف، طعم خوراک را بهتر می‌کنند، بایستی توجه بفرمایید که هر ظرفی که تغییری در طعم خوراک ایجاد کند، به علت واکنش شیمیایی یا آلوده‌کردن خوراک با موادی نامربوط رخ داده است. سالمترین ظروف پخت ظروفی هستند که تغییری در طعم و رنگ غذا نداده و نسبت به واکنش شیمیایی مخصوصا در محیط اسیدی، مقاوم و خنثی هستند. برای راهنمایی بیشتر در مورد انتخاب ظروف پخت مناسب لطفا این ویدیو را مشاهده بفرمایید: https://youtu.be/_1_Tc_3Px98 ـــــــــــــــــــــــــــــــــــــــــــ Link to English video "Abgousht: The Definitive Guide on cooking, serving and eating of Iran’s most famous national dish": https://youtu.be/Ob5khjpWifo?si=v4qmCiDIUphk6YJC English names for suitable lamb cuts: Ribs, breast, shoulder (aka Chuck) Neck and shank also suitable *** search "lamb cuts diagram" in google for visual descriptions

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