黑胡椒螃蟹|新加坡国菜:比辣椒蟹更好吃!Black Pepper Crab

河水洋洋实验室PrecisionCooking December 18, 2023
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河水洋洋实验室PrecisionCooking

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河水洋洋,博士双人组,一位是洋洋,医学博士,导演、摄影兼后期制作,一位是洋洋先生,工学博士,菜肴设计兼烹饪。我们的新浪美食博客访问量超过1100万,先后出版了两本美食畅销书《洋味儿快餐手册》和《你不会做菜》。我们居住在美丽的澳大利亚,最喜欢的事情就是用科学的手术刀解剖美食菜肴,用工程学的手段将他们复制出来,再用撰写学术论文的态度用视频表现出来和大家一起分享。

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黑胡椒螃蟹和辣椒蟹是新加坡的两大国菜,外来旅游者更为熟悉的是辣椒蟹,而新加坡本地人比较钟爱黑椒蟹。不少人认为黑椒蟹更为干香一些,更深层次上说,黑椒蟹更象是这个袖珍国家在盘子里的生动写照。新加坡是个多民族国家,华人、马来人和印度人是三个最大的社区,从19世纪初期开始,这里又长期被英国人统治,当地的美食成为多种文化融合的一个象征。以黑椒蟹为例,烹制酱汁使用黄油源自英国人的传统,里面的主料黑胡椒是马来群岛的特产,咖喱叶是印度料理的当家调料,蚝油、生抽、老抽和豆豉则是广东厨师手中的法宝。这样一道综合了新加坡历史文化和民族背景的菜肴变成最受欢迎的国菜自然是众望所归的事情。 在新加坡,烹制黑椒蟹使用的是泥蟹(又叫青蟹),体大肉多,体重普遍在1公斤以上。泥蟹在中国古代被称为“蝤蛑”,苏东坡在《艾子杂说》写道: 艾子行於海上,见一物圆而褊,且多足,问居人曰:“此何物也?”曰:“蝤蛑也。”,既又见一物,圆褊多足,问居人曰:“此何物也?”,曰:“螃蟹也。”,又於后得一物,状貌皆若前所见而极小,问居人曰:“此何物也?”,曰:“彭越也。” 艾子喟然嘆曰:“何一蟹不如一蟹也!”。 大致意思就是艾子先生在海上先看到泥蟹,觉得挺大,再看到螃蟹,小了一圈,最后又看到螃蜞(彭越就是螃蜞,上海有条小河叫做彭越浦,大约是曾经盛产螃蜞),小的可怜,于是哀叹,为啥一蟹不如一蟹!,如今这句话比喻一代不如一代,一拨儿不如一拨儿。 泥蟹并非黑椒蟹的唯一选择,其它肉蟹,比如东亚地区出产的梭子蟹或者北美西海岸出产的邓金斯蟹(Dungeness Crab)都非常适合制作黑椒蟹。 体力充沛的新鲜活蟹自然是最佳选择,不过有时候活蟹未必真的新鲜,长途运输、长时间的存储会让螃蟹处于濒死状态,此时蟹肉的品质已经开始下降。相对来说,那些捕捞之后马上在船上直接快速冷冻或者先用高温海水煮熟后再快速冷冻的螃蟹反而要比那些历尽千辛万苦已经奄奄一息的所谓活蟹更新鲜一些。不要买超市柜台里面已经解冻的蟹,因为你不知道它们已经解冻了多长时间。 食材清单(Ingredients): 1)泥蟹(Mud Crab):1只 2)普通面粉(Plain/All-purpose Flour):150g 3)植物油(Vegetable Oil):800g 4)红辣椒(Red Chilli):1支 5)香菜(Coriander/Cilantro):1棵 6)黑椒汁(Black Pepper Sauce):250g (制作方法见 https://youtu.be/8doXjwYA5HQ ) 制作方法: 1. 如果买来螃蟹张牙舞爪过于生猛,可以把它们放进冰箱冷冻室内冻一小时,它们就会进入沉睡状态,这时候再拆解螃蟹就比较安全,也更加人道一些。 2. 从靠近身体的关节处下刀,把八只蟹脚和蟹螯取下来。从螃蟹的后部下手,借助剪刀把螃蟹的盖子打开。 3. 将拆掉盖子的蟹身洗干净,别忘了把两侧的蟹腮和其它内脏清理干净,只保留蟹肉。如果打算用来请客,最好把螃蟹的盖子也一并洗干净,上面没什么肉,但是放在盘子里可以起到很好的装饰效果。把蟹螯和蟹脚仔细清洗干净。 4. 从身体的中线下刀把螃蟹切成左右两大块,然后再把它们均匀地切成3小块。从蟹螯中间的关节处下刀,把蟹螯分成两段。泥蟹的体形较大,蟹螯部分的壳非常坚硬,最好提前把把它敲裂,不然你就等着在餐桌上观赏大家张牙舞爪吧,搞不好还要替人家付牙医账单。 5. 取一只大盘子,加入150克面粉。将所有的蟹块均匀地裹上一层面粉。 6. 取一只直径18厘米的小锅,倒入800克植物油。我们这里用的是菜籽油。用中高火把油锅加热到180°C(350°F)。分批把蟹块放进油锅里,直到把外面裹的面粉炸成浅浅的金黄色,然后捞出来滤掉多余的油。 7. 利用这段时间把一只新鲜的红辣椒去籽后细细切碎,将一棵香菜洗净擦干后切碎用作最后的装饰。到这里我们黑椒蟹已经基本胜利在望了。 8. 取一只炒锅,倒入250克黑椒汁。黑椒汁的做法请参见我们之前发布的视频( https://youtu.be/8doXjwYA5HQ )。 9. 用中高火将黑椒汁烧热,加入切碎的红辣椒翻炒均匀。倒入炸好的蟹块,不断翻炒,直到绝大部分黑椒汁都均匀地包裹在蟹块的外面。 10. 装盘的时候尽量把视觉效果最好的蟹螯放在上面,将螃蟹盖子放在稍低一些的位置,最后撒上切好的香菜。剩下的,就是准备迎接餐桌上大家的欢呼吧! 制作要点: 虽然是一款典型的东南亚菜肴,黑椒蟹的最佳伴侣却是中国北方常见的馒头,吃一口黑椒蟹,咬一口馒头,那绝对是顶级的美食感受。馒头还有另外一个妙用,等黑椒蟹吃光之后可以用来擦盘子,哈哈。 我们的更多视频: 【黑椒牛肉酱拌面】吃起来真的会上瘾! https://youtu.be/xQcREXC9SQA 【全熟牛排】煎出完美全熟牛排是艺术,更是科学!告诉你餐馆里不愿意给你做全熟牛排的真正原因 https://youtu.be/Kh642l0sROA 【罗宋汤】全网最狠的做法在这里,轻松超越任何一家西菜馆,就算不做,跟着看看也解馋! https://youtu.be/hj5ma1imBOU 【碱水面】在家做出面馆水准的面条,摇坏两台面条机总结出的完美方案! https://youtu.be/nxNWEYHGUDM 【鸡蛋面】又细又劲道而且弹性十足,这种做法和竹升面有异曲同工之妙! https://youtu.be/LWpc2V90PVo 【豉油皇炒面】人人钟爱的港式早餐茶点 https://youtu.be/_y8bAnhVmd4 【台湾牛肉面】费尽心机就是为了炖出这锅让人叹为观止的牛肉! https://youtu.be/IZp-ubDWLqc 【苏州焖肉面】江南面王之王 https://youtu.be/7JoRl1ds1qY 【上海炸猪排】味道轻松甩西餐厅3条横马路! https://youtu.be/8NzaDgm8GLU 【白葡萄酒蒸贻贝】《深夜食堂》酒蒸蛤蜊居然来自这道法式料理 https://youtu.be/8lXk7hd_m3E

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