探索清湯腩由來!天后名店鮮牛腩炆足6次爽口無渣 湯分濃清兩派要隔渣三次先夠清 鏞記用極罕部位腩角熬足兩小時日限8份 #籽想好食─果籽 香港 Apple Daily─原刊日期:20200508

果籽 December 30, 2020
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果籽

@mmhk

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《果籽》 點籽.好生活 《果籽》關心你生活,讓你每天過好日子。「健康蘋台」讓瘟疫與你保持距離,「籽想旅行」讓眼睛不用自我隔離,「動物蘋台」讓你做個盡責奴才,還有「Gadget Guy」讓你足不出戶也能緊貼科技世界。無間斷為你送上實用資訊,於令人侷促不安的氣氛下,為你尋找喘息空間,抗疫路上和你一同呼吸自由空氣。

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|清湯腩由來—天后名店鮮牛腩炆足6次爽口無渣 湯分濃清兩派要隔渣三次先夠清 鏞記用極罕部位腩角熬足兩小時日限8份 廣東人烹牛腩,通常用柱侯醬炆,名柱侯牛腩。港式清湯腩屬後起之秀,飲食界流傳由中環的「九記牛腩」於六十年代所創,先用香料熬湯,再用來炆牛腩,清湯不膩,九記老闆把這種特色食物命名為清湯腩。 不錯!清湯腩叫法是源自九記,但用清湯炆牛腩的做法則由來已久,不是九記首創,而其中一個源流是潮州。「潮州當地未必叫『清湯腩』,但亦是一個有湯汁的牛腩。在潮州地區吃這種牛腩,通常叫蘿蔔牛腩或牛腩,大家都知道是那種東西。潮州的清湯腩,主要的味道是白胡椒味,一吃到白胡椒味,就會聯想到潮州清湯腩的味道;另外的一個味道是南薑,潮州的清湯腩會加少許南薑起一個底味。」潮州大廚許美德解釋。除了白胡椒及南薑,潮州清湯腩還會加陳皮、草菓等香料, 吃時有少許辣味。 https://hk.appledaily.com/lifestyle/20200508/Z2TFRMVMY7TESPJ4TNWHNCWJMM/ 清湯腩做法不複雜,坊間有許多食譜流傳,清湯腩店為了做出風味、吸引食客,只各師各法,做好細節,其中之一是湯底。清湯腩湯底基本調味是冰糖、草菓、薑、八角等六七種香料,為了提升濃郁度,有人亦會用牛骨熬。 坊間做法大致可分兩派:一派着重清新,調味料份量較少,湯好熬後會用兩種方法降低油膩。「我覺得清湯腩湯底清才能凸出牛腩的鮮味,太油膩會黏着嘴巴,我們清湯都是由煲底的水龍頭流出來的,浮面的油脂扔掉,之後還會再撇油數次。」澳門咖喱王新鮮腩的老闆殷江說。 https://hk.appledaily.com/lifestyle/20200508/EKNCCBVJLXGTKZXYDXKEIZ46VY/ 清湯腩要做得好吃,牛腩是主角是靈魂。大部份好吃的清湯腩店,都用本地鮮宰騸牯牛。「騸牯牛即是閹割了的公牛,生長期較長,一般要六七年,但肉質較鮮嫩,少牛羶味,跟街市賣的鮮宰牛比,味道高一層次,更是外國進口雪藏牛腩難比擬的。外國宰牛後會立即真空雪藏,雖然較省成本,但雪藏時,牛體溫仍未降,外冷內暖,形成發酵,便影響了肉質彈性及鮮味。」新財肉食公司老闆莫景雄解釋。 對於食客,除了優質牛腩,選擇部位亦重要。牛腩基本分為坑腩、爽腩及崩沙腩,來自牛腩不同位置,有的肉味濃,有的口感富彈性,有的油香,各有好吃地方,試多一點,定能找到自己心頭好,亦更懂得欣賞清湯腩這種庶民美食。最多人推崇是崩沙,位於橫膈膜附近、牛肚兩邊腩位,腩上有薄膜,豐富膠質,連着少許肉,爽軟不硬,口感豐富。 https://hk.appledaily.com/lifestyle/20200509/Z7ZGR5WZ7PRJDC5YFRTY6KGZAQ/ 影片: 【我是南丫島人】23歲仔獲cafe免費借位擺一人咖啡檔 $6,000租住350呎村屋:愛這裏互助關係 (果籽 Apple Daily) (https://youtu.be/XSugNPyaXFQ) 【香港蠔 足本版】流浮山白蠔收成要等三年半 天然生曬肥美金蠔日產僅50斤 即撈即食中環名人坊蜜餞金蠔 西貢六福酥炸生蠔 (果籽 Apple Daily) (https://youtu.be/Fw653R1aQ6s) 【這夜給惡人基一封信】大佬茅躉華日夜思念 回憶從8歲開始:兄弟有今生沒來世 (壹週刊 Next) (https://youtu.be/t06qjQbRIpY) 【太子餃子店】新移民唔怕蝕底自薦包餃子 粗重功夫一腳踢 老闆刮目相看邀開店:呢個女人唔係女人(飲食男女 Apple Daily) https://youtu.be/7CUTg7LXQ4M) 【娛樂人物】情願市民留家唔好出街聚餐 鄧一君兩麵舖執笠蝕200萬 (蘋果日報 Apple Daily) (https://youtu.be/e3agbTOdfoY) 果籽 :http://as.appledaily.com 籽想旅行:http://travelseed.hk 健康蘋台: http://applehealth.com.hk 動物蘋台: http://applepetform.com #清湯腩 #天后美食 #九記牛腩 #澳門美食 #咖喱王新鮮腩 #果籽 #StayHome #WithMe #跟我一樣 #宅在家

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