高桥盾 | 巧妙融合美与丑的当代思考者 | UNDERCOVER | 品牌故事

开卷三分钟 December 8, 2023
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开卷三分钟

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用简练而深刻的方式 揭示时尚品牌的独特魅力

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原宿,位于东京都涉谷区,是时尚和文化的聚集地,也是日本流行文化的发源地。在二战后,原宿成为美军的驻扎基地,导致附近涌现了为美军服务的商店和餐厅,成为西方文化传播的源头。随着日本经济的快速发展,1960年代,原宿吸引了众多时尚设计师,逐渐成为一个充满创意和艺术氛围的社区。 到了1990年代,新兴设计师纷纷进驻原宿的小巷,被称为「里原宿」,形成了「里原系」时尚潮流文化。 UNDERCOVER品牌由高桥盾创立,他是一个热爱朋克音乐和时尚的设计师。在学习服装设计时,他组建了朋克乐队,深受英国性手枪朋克摇滚乐队的影响。1990年,他与一之瀬弘法共同创立了UNDERCOVER品牌,起初以手工印刷T恤为主。品牌初露锋芒得益于与其他时尚先锋的交往,包括川久保玲等。 1994年,高桥盾的巴黎时装秀得到了成功,得到了川久保玲的赞誉。这一时期也标志着UNDERCOVER品牌逐渐崭露头角。2002年,川久保玲建议高桥盾参加巴黎时装秀,为他赢得更多关注。 2004年秋冬系列的「BUT BEAUTIFUL」主题引起了热烈反响,展现了颓废摇滚氛围,将美与丑巧妙融合,呈现出前卫的时尚态度。其中「68牛仔裤」成为代表作品,因其独特设计和高人气而备受瞩目。 品牌继续扩张,与多个品牌合作,包括Nike、Uniqlo和Valentino。2010年,推出男女支线品牌John UNDERCOVER和Sue UNDERCOVER。2015年,庆祝品牌成立25周年的「The Greatest」系列致敬经典,并展示了品牌深厚历史和独特风格。 UNDERCOVER独特之处在于其巧妙融合街头文化与时尚潮流、美与丑等矛盾元素。作为富有创意和前卫精神的品牌,UNDERCOVER不仅仅是时尚追随者,更是对当代社会价值观进行深刻反思的思考者。

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