中國西安熱鬧早市,碳水美食热量爆炸,超便宜的物價令人震驚!街頭美食擺滿地,新鮮蔬果市民搶購,必嘗關中小點心豆皮泡饅,千年古都的人間煙火,人山人海熱鬧無比!
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天还蒙蒙的,是那种将亮未亮的青灰色。城墙的轮廓在晨雾里显得格外沉静,像一位闭目养神的老人。可一拐进巷子,便撞见了另一个世界——热蓬蓬的,喧嚷嚷的,活色生香的。这便是西安的早市了。 声音是先入为主的。各色的腔调搅在一处,却不觉得刺耳,反是热闹的,充满了生机。卖浆水鱼鱼的老汉拖着长长的尾音:“鱼鱼——酸酸儿的鱼鱼——”那声音像是从岁月的深处捞起来的,带着水汽。旁边卖甑糕的三轮车上,厚棉褥子一揭开,那股子甜糯的、扎实的香气,便混着枣泥与芸豆的暖息,直往人鼻孔里钻,霸道得很,也受用得很。 眼睛便不够使了。那水灵灵的青菜,还带着昨夜的露水似的,一颗颗码得齐整,像是待检阅的兵。西红柿红得憨实,黄瓜绿得脆生。一旁肉铺的铁钩上,挂着半扇新鲜的羊,肉色是好看的胭脂红,还微微地冒着热气。最动人的是那些老人家,他们不急,蹲在菜摊前,用一双布满纹路的手,极耐心地剥着葱上那层干枯的薄皮,仿佛在做一件顶要紧的工课。那剥出的葱白,便如玉一般了。 我随着人流慢慢地走,看那些吃食摊子上升起的白汽,在清冷的空气里织成一片温暖的雾。胡辣汤的锅里稠稠地滚着,用木勺一搅,便露出里头的面筋、肉丸与黄花木耳,是浓墨重彩的一笔。还有那油茶麻花,炸得金黄的麻花,半截儿浸在杏黄色的油茶里,吸足了汁水,吃起来外软内韧,满口咸香。 正走着,忽然听见一阵极清亮的秦腔,从一个卖擀面皮的老者的收音机里淌出来。那声音高亢、苍凉,像一把刀子,划破了这市井的、温吞的空气。一瞬间,周遭的喧闹仿佛都静了下去,只有那古老的腔调,在城墙根下,在晨光与暮色交替了千年的地方,盘旋,回荡。 我忽然明白了。这早市,哪里只是买卖的场所?它是这座古城的脉搏,一下,一下,平稳而有力地跳动着。那千年的汉唐风韵,并未锁在博物馆的玻璃柜里,而是活生生地、热腾腾地,融在这每日清晨的烟火气里了。
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